There are some places on our delicate planet that live long in the memory thanks to their sheer beauty. The desert of Wadi Rum in Jordan is one such place.
One early spring evening, perched on a rock high above the desert floor, we watched the sun go down on the far horizon. We stood in awe as it slipped slowly behind the arid mountains, bathing us in a golden light in an all-too-brief, silent and romantic moment.
That sunset was just one highlight of our trip to Wadi Rum, a desert with a thrilling sandstone and granite landscape that looks particularly amazing set against a backdrop of deep blue skies. It was once on the important trade routes from the east and home to the Nabateans of Petra. Our guides pointed out their rudimentary carvings, now several thousand years old, which can still be seen on some of the rocks.
Lawrence of Arabia hid out in Wadi Rum during his battles with the Ottoman Turks in the early 20th century, and the David Lean film that told his story was partly shot there. It’s a link the tourist authorities make much of, which comes as no surprise at all, but the desert is still home to the Bedouin, who act as guides and hosts for visitors.
There’s an impressive welcome centre where a video explains how Wadi Rum came to be and how it’s been home to people for thousands of years. It looks out over the giant rock known today as The Seven Pillars of Wisdom, after the Lawrence book.
We explored the desert – a UNESCO World Heritage Site – on a day trip from our base in Aqaba, in a well-worn 4×4 controlled by a driver whose brief was clearly to scare the shit out of us. Outside the visitor centre, the drivers (some of whom were only just into their teens) lined up ready to take their human cargo for a ride. Some of the older tourists looked horrified and we all clung on for dear life.
The drivers threw us around the landscape, up dunes and through giant rock formations. In the heat and blazing sunshine and freed from our carriages, we trudged up some of those dunes to take in the glorious views. On the well-worn tourist trail we ended up in Siq Um Tawaqi, a canyon with a Lawrence carving and stories that kept the guides busy. We stopped briefly at a little cafe and souvenir stall.
We stayed on to take in that breathtaking sunset and then headed to a touristy Bedouin evening, with food served, music and dance. It was all very packaged but enjoyable nevertheless. However, perhaps we should’ve done what so many had chosen to do and booked an overnight stay in the campsite.
Meanwhile, above us and with no light pollution to ruin things, the stars shone like beacons and the moon slowly drifted across the inky sky.
