Picture the scene. You’ve travelled half way round the world to see one of the planet’s greatest natural wonders, only to be told that it’s closed. Imagine the crushing disappointment… So it was for us in Argentina after arriving from Buenos Aires at the Selvaje Lodge Hotel in the jungle half an hour’s drive from…
Author: Stephen
The city of Salta and its Inca children
Salta in the north west of Argentina is a jumping off point for adventures in the Andes, but there’s more to the city than tour operators competing for tourist pesos and coaches heading west. True, we used it as a base for a trip to the Salinas Grandes salt flats but we also found interesting…
A week in Buenos Aires, capital of Argentina
I expected many things of Buenos Aires, Argentina’s sprawling capital, but I didn’t expect it to be quite so grand. It’s a city of epic public buildings, grand mansions, wide boulevards and generous public squares. Perhaps I’d been put off the scent by all the economic traumas, dictatorships, persecutions and politically-motivated murders that Argentina has…
To the Salinas Grandes, high up in the Andes
The twisting roads of the European Alps in winter offer memorable views of snow-capped peaks and soaring pines. Come summer, cattle graze on verdant meadows filled with colourful wildflowers. But thousands of miles away in the Andes of north-west Argentina the mountains couldn’t be more different in the middle of a Southern Hemisphere spring. This…
History and waterfalls in Quebec City
If Montreal is the brazen youth of the French-Canadian province of Quebec, the capital Quebec City is the maiden aunt. Staid, proper and well turned out, it’s also packed with history and great architecture. At times it’s got the look and feel of an ancient French village. But this is also where the indigenous people…
A spring break in Montreal
Quebec’s largest and most energetic city has a charming old town, great bars and restaurants, but also a touch of the chaotic about it. It’s not a city that’s easy to fall in love with. Much like Toronto, it feels like it’s been thrown together with little thought to the whole. A motorway ploughs through…
A stay on the north Norfolk coast
Norfolk’s coastline veers from the placid to the chaotic depending on the weather. And we witnessed both during our stay in the pretty town of Wells Next The Sea. The county has a coastline of crumbling cliffs, endless sandy beaches, salt-flats and marshes. Birdwatchers love its many nature reserves, sunbathers its sandier spots. Out to…
The historic wool towns of Suffolk
Many of our most historic towns survived intact not because of the efforts of worthy and wealthy citizens, but because their inhabitants were so poor. The argument goes that without the money to improve their properties or to demolish and rebuild in the latest styles, residents effectively left their towns in a kind of architectural…
Exploring the Norfolk of my ancestors
In centuries past my ancestors ploughed the fields of Norfolk, worked as publicans and labourers in its towns and villages and worshipped in its many churches. But it wasn’t until our 2020 staycation – replacing a coronavirus-related cancellation of our Japan holiday – that I finally got round to visiting the places they called home….
Walberswick and a stay on the Suffolk coast
We didn’t spot a single celebrity in the pretty Suffolk village of Walberswick, which must be a record judging by the number who allegedly live there. Why they’ve chosen to set up home in this corner of East Anglia is pretty obvious. A stone’s throw from the more popular seaside town of Southwold across the…
The gardens of Norfolk
2020 has been a year of lockdowns and social distancing, confinement to base and almost no travel. Our garden and allotment has been a lifesaver for us, allowing us to get out and appreciate nature and fresh air. And during our staycation in East Anglia, we visited a collection of magnificent gardens that gave us…
A stormy weekend in Norwich
Norwich was England’s second city in the distant past, back when East Anglia’s wool and agriculture powered the medieval economy. It may not play such a crucial role in the nation these days but Norwich makes up for it in character, history and charm. I imagine it would’ve been low down on our list of staycation destinations were it not for the…
Cologne and its architecture
Cologne, like many German towns and cities, was left devastated by the Second World War. Photos of the aftermath show piles of rubble, the bare bones of buildings and its famous cathedral scarred by allied bombers. The post-war resurrection brought with it some recreation of the old, but the city’s planners weren’t afraid to embrace…
Cologne and its Christmas markets
Nobody does Christmas or Christmas markets quite like Germany. So when I asked my friend and expert Nicky for tips on where to find the best, I wasn’t surprised when she recommended Cologne. The largest city in North-Rhine Westphalia may be best known for its imposing Gothic cathedral but, having spent a December weekend there,…
A weekend in Belfast
Belfast was synonymous with bomb blasts and shootings in my youth, a city where Ireland’s Unionist and Nationalist traditions clashed violently. Today, thanks to the peace process, it’s very much on the tourist trail and not shy about being the birth place of the Titanic. The conflict that raged for around 50 years, called The…