On a sweltering September day we discovered the beautiful Filbert Steps and other San Francisco landmarks on a walk to the famous Ferry Building.
Our stay coincided with a rare late summer heatwave, with temperatures on some days hitting the 90s, but we weren’t going to let the weather put us off exploring the city. So we began our walk below brilliant blue skies at the Coit Tower, high up in peaceful, green Pioneer Park on Telegraph Hill. If nothing else, it got us used to the city’s punishing climbs.
The 64m tower was named after Lillian Coit, a rich and eccentric socialite who left a chunk of her money to beautify the city. She was famous for chasing fire engines through the streets and as a child hung out with the Knickerbocker Engine Co 5, becoming their mascot. She also smoked cigars and dressed up as a man so she could indulge in her hobby of gambling in men-only establishments.
Her legacy paid for the tower, which was designed by Arthur Brown and Henry Howard and took five years to build.
As famous as the striking art deco memorial tower are the colourful murals that line the walls inside, completed as part of the Public Works of Art Project – the New Deal federal employment programme for artists. They vary tremendously, from scenes of San Francisco to illustrations that celebrate the role of workers in California life – some with a notably leftist theme that I imagine has many Americans gagging on their cokes. After viewing the murals, we paid for the ride up to the top of the tower in the small, vintage lift. There we got first-rate views over to Golden Gate Bridge, the Bay Bridge and the rest of the city.
Back down to earth, we headed towards the bay and the Filbert Steps, a set of wooden stairs and footpaths that took us into one of the quietest parts of the city, a haven for wildlife, trees and plants. At times, surrounded by greenery, it was like being in a quiet village far away from the busy city.
The steps and footpaths down the eastern side of Telegraph Hill meandered through beautiful gardens maintained by the residents. The sun broke through the canopy of trees, and colourful flowers and cobwebs shimmered in the morning light. Hidden among the vegetation, perched on the hill, were fire hydrants and handsome wooden homes. How these would survive an earthquake I don’t know.
We emerged on to Sansome Street, completing our trek down concrete steps built on what is best described as a sheer cliff face, passing people puffing their way uphill. We were aiming for the busy San Francisco Ferry Building on The Embarcadero, one of the city’s icons, topped by a magnificent clock tower. Once busy with commuters and tourists using the ferries that were the bay’s lifeblood, its fortunes faded with the building of the now famous bridges. However, it now has a new lease of life.
The long Great Nave, which used to be piled high with baggage and rang out to the calls of porters, is home to many thriving, specialist food and drinks retailers and delis, selling everything from the wines of nearby vineyards to local fruit and speciality cheeses.
It also houses the best of the San Francisco farmers’ markets several days a week. We wandered around and treated ourselves to lunch with a difference, joining local businesspeople who flock there to discuss work over a quick bite.
For us, it was an ideal way to relax after a busy morning of sightseeing…