Could we ever escape the overwhelming crowds of Kyoto? Would the attractions on the edge of the city, in Arashiyama, be less busy?
Not really as it turned out because, let’s face it, it’s a district that boasts some of the city’s most picture-perfect destinations. However, we did find peace and quiet in Okochi Sanso, a fabulous garden that would rank among my favourites by the end of our holiday.
The day began with a tasty breakfast at the Hyatt, a hotel of clean lines, elegance, minimalist decor and long, long corridors. Indoors, the air-con was welcome. Outdoors it was incredibly sultry.
We caught the bus to Arashiyama from the centre of town, a journey of traffic jams in the busy shopping district, unremarkable suburbs and bumpy roads. Hunched pensioners in various states of disrepair clambered on an off with their shopping, caps shielding them from the sun. It was just like a bus trip in central London, apart from the fact that in Kyoto our driver was polite to one and all, friendly, helpful and clearly very grateful for our patronage.
Arashiyama itself was busy, busy, busy with the usual herds of schoolkids and tourists. We walked to an old wooden bridge that spans the wide, slow-flowing river and leads to a number of temples a monkey sanctuary and the lush mountains to the west of the city.
In the heat, we returned to the east bank and padded around the Tenryu-ji temple and its glorious grounds, another of the city’s many UNESCO World Heritage Sites. The Zen garden for which it’s famous is another beauty but probably best viewed at cherry blossom time or when the leaves are turning in the autumn. Still, a little stream dodged its way through the manicured landscape and drained into a large pond at the garden’s heart, and I could’ve sat and watched nature at play for hours.
We left the temple and ploughed on through the crowds to the Arashiyama Bamboo Grove, which stands behind the temple. It’s an extraordinary place, an epic forest the like of which I’d never seen before, which played with the sun’s rays and provided some much-needed shade. I’d never seen such giant bamboo or in such quantity anywhere before and navigating it was a bit like walking through the nave of a grand Norman cathedral in an old English city.
There were, of course, too many people around to try my patience but peace was restored just a few steps beyond the grove. There, on the hillside, we found the beautiful Japanese garden, Okochi Sanso, created many decades ago by a famous star of samurai films. Thanks to the pricey admission fee there were few people around, and that suited us just fine. We could explore in peace the maze of little footpaths through the dense planting, which occasionally revealed shrines, a tea house and views across the city. At one point we emerged to glorious views of the western mountains and I marvelled at our luck in finding this stunning place. I particularly loved the way the Japanese keep the colour palette so minimal to such powerful effect, and how they make such great use of moss. It made me want to rush home and create a Japanese garden of our own.
We emerged from this haven of peace and beauty into the tourist chaos of Arashiyama and got the train back into the city for a quick walk around the northern end of the Higashiyama district. We found a small but colourful temple, the Shoren-in, which boasted another charming garden and giant camphor trees. The screens in the temple buildings were outstanding, with painted flowers and 16th century decorations. As we sat in peace and contemplated the garden, a newly married couple were having their photos taken.
We passed the monumental entrance to the Chion-in temple nearby, strolled through the Maruyama park and discovered the historic if restored streets of Ninen-zaka and Sannen-zaka. A giant pagoda dominates the skyline there and we strolled the narrow alleys lined with traditional wooden buildings and touristy shops. It was so picturesque that we decided to stop for a beer and chat to a local, who was heading off to London on holiday and hoping for work. It had been a wonderful afternoon.
In the evening we tried the Gion district for food but it didn’t offer what I was looking for and I got cheesed off with traipsing around looking for something. My feet were suffering enough with all the day’s walking. So we headed back to Pontocho and found an OK place called East, sitting out in the fresh night air over the canal and enjoying a sort of Japanese tapas.
Perhaps against our better judgement, we returned to the ever so quiet Hello Dolly bar for beer. And a seat.