The Prince-Archbishops of Salzburg were a wealthy bunch. They ruled over their dinky city state, part of the Holy Roman Empire, for centuries before it was absorbed into Austria. And they built grand palaces and fortresses to prove to everyone just how important they were.
Schloss Hellbrunn became their summer playground, a yellow jewel in the green valleys of the Salzburgerland. It’s best known not for the palace but the water features that played tricks on unsuspecting visitors, and which still work today.
It’s easy to get to Hellbrunn. A short ride on the 25 bus from Salzburg city centre took us through the city’s middle class suburbs, offering some excellent views of the Hohensalzburg Fortress along the way. If there were any dodgy districts we didn’t pass through them, which came as no surprise because I can’t imagine that Salzburg folk would put up with poverty or working class people let alone, God forbid, immigrants (especially if they were non-white).
The palace was built in the early 17th century on the site of an existing house by the then Prince-Archbishop Markus Sittikus von Hohenems, an extravagant fellow who clearly thought of himself as a very important person judging by the amount he spent on glorifying his residences and religious buildings. Hellbrunn was built in the baroque style and includes the main house as well as stables and outbuildings, surrounded by water features and gardens. Inside, the history of the house, the story of Markus Sittikus and its other residents are told in a modern and engaging way without any dumbing down.
But it’s the fountains that everyone comes to see and we submitted to the obligatory guided tour, joining a crowd of giggly Japanese pensioners, local families and gobby Yanks in the sweltering heat. It was Markus Sittikus who ordered the fountains and tricks be built, in order to entertain his guests (and perhaps humiliate those he didn’t like). We began at a stone table and chairs that delivered a good soaking once the volunteers had settled into their places. How hilarious it must’ve been for the Archbishop to see his guests leaping about in shock and sodden clothes while he, of course, stayed dry. One gets the feeling that he was a bit of a twat…
There are extravagantly decorated grottos, all with tricks. In one, a jet of water raises a crown into the air. Just beyond are a series of small theatrical scenes in which water-driven figures work and play or enact scenes from Greek myths. Most impressive of all is a Mechanical Theatre, which was added to the park in the mid-18th century and has more than 150 figures walking, playing, marching and working their way through their town. Again, it’s all powered by water and all the more impressive for it. The guide was charming and friendly and ensured we all got wet, which was more than welcome in the heat.
The grounds beyond have been beautifully landscaped, with lakes and trees and flower beds. We walked up a nearby hill to the modest Little Month House, named because it was allegedly built in just 30 days. Nestled in the trees and with great views back to Salzburg’s Fortress and the neighbouring mountains, it houses a museum of folklore that’s actually a lot more interesting than it sounds and has a particularly fascinating section on the traditions of local folk.
Up there, away from the crowds, I could see why Markus built himself a retreat where he did…