Norfolk’s coastline veers from the placid to the chaotic depending on the weather. And we witnessed both during our stay in the pretty town of Wells Next The Sea. The county has a coastline of crumbling cliffs, endless sandy beaches, salt-flats and marshes. Birdwatchers love its many nature reserves, sunbathers its sandier spots. Out to…
Category: Europe
The historic wool towns of Suffolk
Many of our most historic towns survived intact not because of the efforts of worthy and wealthy citizens, but because their inhabitants were so poor. The argument goes that without the money to improve their properties or to demolish and rebuild in the latest styles, residents effectively left their towns in a kind of architectural…
Exploring the Norfolk of my ancestors
In centuries past my ancestors ploughed the fields of Norfolk, worked as publicans and labourers in its towns and villages and worshipped in its many churches. But it wasn’t until our 2020 staycation – replacing a coronavirus-related cancellation of our Japan holiday – that I finally got round to visiting the places they called home….
Walberswick and a stay on the Suffolk coast
We didn’t spot a single celebrity in the pretty Suffolk village of Walberswick, which must be a record judging by the number who allegedly live there. Why they’ve chosen to set up home in this corner of East Anglia is pretty obvious. A stone’s throw from the more popular seaside town of Southwold across the…
The gardens of Norfolk
2020 has been a year of lockdowns and social distancing, confinement to base and almost no travel. Our garden and allotment has been a lifesaver for us, allowing us to get out and appreciate nature and fresh air. And during our staycation in East Anglia, we visited a collection of magnificent gardens that gave us…
A stormy weekend in Norwich
Norwich was England’s second city in the distant past, back when East Anglia’s wool and agriculture powered the medieval economy. It may not play such a crucial role in the nation these days but Norwich makes up for it in character, history and charm. I imagine it would’ve been low down on our list of staycation destinations were it not for the…
Cologne and its architecture
Cologne, like many German towns and cities, was left devastated by the Second World War. Photos of the aftermath show piles of rubble, the bare bones of buildings and its famous cathedral scarred by allied bombers. The post-war resurrection brought with it some recreation of the old, but the city’s planners weren’t afraid to embrace…
Cologne and its Christmas markets
Nobody does Christmas or Christmas markets quite like Germany. So when I asked my friend and expert Nicky for tips on where to find the best, I wasn’t surprised when she recommended Cologne. The largest city in North-Rhine Westphalia may be best known for its imposing Gothic cathedral but, having spent a December weekend there,…
A weekend in Belfast
Belfast was synonymous with bomb blasts and shootings in my youth, a city where Ireland’s Unionist and Nationalist traditions clashed violently. Today, thanks to the peace process, it’s very much on the tourist trail and not shy about being the birth place of the Titanic. The conflict that raged for around 50 years, called The…
24 hours in Malaga
Malaga has a reputation for being a jumping off point for holidays elsewhere in Andalusia rather than a destination in itself. But it was bonkers when we visited, full of tourists who’d decided it was worth a day or two of their precious vacations. And while it doesn’t have a wealth of things to see,…
Granada: Beyond the Alhambra
The Emirate of Granada was the last bastion of the Arabs who ruled much of the Iberian Peninsula from the 8th century until 1492. In January that year the sultan surrendered to the Christian forces and the Alhambra fell. It may have been the end of the Moorish rulers but much of what they built,…
The Alhambra, Granada
The guidebooks tell us that the Alhambra in Granada is one of those sights that just has to be seen at least once. But is it worth the aggravation, worth putting up with the crowds? Is it worth the hype? During our week in Andalusia we had the chance to find out. A mix of…
Cordoba: A palace, patios and tapas
Visiting Cordoba is like visiting an old friend. It’s a recognisably Andalusian city with its cobbled alleys and white-washed terraces highlighted in reds and ochres. Like Seville and Jerez, Cordoba has an historic heart with obvious Roman foundations and a street plan that reflects the medinas of Arab cities. There’s an atmospheric Jewish district of…
Cordoba’s Mezquita, an architectural masterpiece
The magnificent Mezquita in Cordoba is without doubt one of the world’s great buildings, once a mosque and now a cathedral. It’s also somewhere to shelter from the city’s oven-like heat, for even at the end of September the thermometer was recording late 30s centigrade. I really struggle with the heat and spent much of…
Discovering Krakow’s war
Krakow is synonymous with the Second World War. It’s the city of Oskar Schindler, of the horrors of the ghetto and the death camps. Some miles out of town lies that most infamous of concentration camps, Auschwitz, where up to one-sixth of the Jewish victims of the Holocaust were killed. It’s a museum now and…