We have TV presenter Alex Polizzi to thank for our trip to Puglia. Her Channel 5 travel documentary a few years ago highlighted a string of treasures in southern Italy that we just had to visit. Our stops at Matera, Lecce and Alberobello were all a result of watching the programme. And so was Locorotondo,…
Category: Europe
Life among the trulli of Alberobello, Puglia
Puglia is famous for its strange, conical-roofed trulli. They pepper the landscape, peek out from olive groves and stand lonely in the fields. But Alberobello is the place to see them in all their glory. In the heart of the town, nestled on both sides of a shallow valley, they pack the streets and alleys….
Into the earth’s crust at Grotte di Castellana, Puglia
Deep below the fields, farms and villages of Puglia lies Grotte di Castellana, a cave system that’s something like 90 million years old. It made for a great stop on the road to Alberobello during our tour of southern Italy. Italy’s largest subterranean network of caves was created by an underground river but, remarkably, it…
The magic of Matera
For an ancient Italian town perched on the edge of the Murgia National Park, Matera didn’t look promising when we drove into its unremarkable suburbs. But then came the historic centre and one of the most remarkable places I’ve been to anywhere in Europe… We’d driven up from the modest airport on the industrial edge…
The castle at Sintra in Portugal
Sintra’s an easy day trip on the train from Portugal’s wonderful capital Lisbon. Hilly, with great views and some fairy tale architecture, it’s easy to see why the rich, the famous and royalty built their mansions around the village as an escape from the city. Sintra itself is touristy and busy but the real attractions…
Northern Ireland: The Argory
Pondering Northern Ireland, my thoughts are all too often coloured by the Troubles. It’s easy to forget that life went on despite the bombs, shootings and the hectoring background noise of politicians that filled my formative years. It’s weird to think that the National Trust was busy there despite all that trouble, doing its preservation…
Northern Ireland: The Giant’s Causeway and Dunluce Castle
If there’s one thing I’ll remember about Northern Ireland, it’s that this relatively small part of the UK has such a variety of landscapes. The coast of County Antrim is one of the best and its star attraction is the Giant’s Causeway. Driving to giant Finn MacCool’s legendary domain on a warm, sunny day in…
Hunting ancestors in Northern Ireland
It’s a lot easier doing family history when home is just down the road from where ancestors lived and worked. It’s a little more awkward if they hailed from over the water. In my case, Northern Ireland. Some background: My maternal granddad, Ernest Moore, came from Donaghmore in County Tyrone, just a few miles from the banks of mighty…
Stratford-upon-Avon – home of Shakespeare
Call me uncultured but I’ve never been into William Shakespeare. I was made to read As You Like It at school but that’s about it. However, the man’s life and the mysteries that surround it are intriguing. So off we trotted to Stratford-upon-Avon in Warwickshire for a family event, staying at the Q hotel, with…
Tenerife: A drive to La Laguna
If I learnt anything in Tenerife, it’s never to trust a sat-nav. After the traumas of getting to Teide, our expensive piece of tech managed to land us, somewhat embarassed, in the pedestrianised shopping streets of the UNESCO World Heritage Site of La Laguna. All I wanted to do was park the car but it…
Tenerife: The epic Mount Teide
When the clouds weren’t hovering threateningly over Tenerife we couldn’t miss the island’s magnificent volcano, Mount Teide. Descending from 35,000ft in our Airbus on that first day, we saw it dominating the island that it helped to create, its upper slopes covered in snow. And from our hotel grounds in the resort town of Puerto de…
A visit to La Oratava in Tenerife
We went all the way to Tenerife for winter sun and relaxation only to find a depressing layer of cloud that refused to budge from the volcanic mountains around Puerto de la Cruz. So while the Hotel Botanico pool may have looked inviting, it was a bit too cold to sit out, read and swim –…
Tenerife: Exploring the gardens of Puerto de la Cruz
Puerto de la Cruz is part modern resort, part historic harbour village. And it’s surprisingly green too. Walking around town, and we did a lot of that when the weather was drab, we were impressed by the way locals kept their gardens tended and how even the smallest of green spaces had been kept spick…
Tenerife: A week in Puerto de la Cruz
We’re no strangers to the Canaries. They’re the default, value-for-money option when it comes to escaping the drab, damp days of winter in London. We’d plumped this time for the northern resort town of Puerto de la Cruz in Tenerife rather than Gran Canaria. It was my first time on the island, Graham’s second. The…
Going weird: The ossuary at Kutna Hora
I’ve been around a bit and seen some weird and wonderful things. But the Sedlec Ossuary at Kutna Hora, deep in the Czech Republic, has to rank as one of the strangest. For those who don’t know, an ossuary is a resting place for human skeletons. At Kutna Hora, which we found about an hour outside…