We spent a glorious week in May on the Greek island of Mykonos, enjoying the quiet of low season before the holidaymakers arrived in droves. But there was no avoiding the vast cruise ships and their armies of passengers.
Most days the ships appeared in the harbour of Mykonos Town, dumping wave after wave of visitors onto the streets and alleys of the pretty, white-washed capital of the island. Most were American and elderly and many struggled to make it up the hills. In the early evening the restaurants and bars overflowed with them until they scurried back to their ships, ready to depart for the next island on their itinerary. Only then did the town, also known as Chora, return to something like normal. I know we’re tourists but these huge vessels and their flocks can overwhelm a destination, especially one as small as Mykonos Town.
Cruise ships and creaking pensioners aside, we loved Mykonos. We stayed at the swanky, 60s-style Mykonos Theoxenia on the cliffs just behind the island’s trademark, historic windmills that once milled wheat. We had a beautifully designed room, a free bottle of plonk waiting for us and relaxing times by the peaceful pool, with just a few other guests for company. Our camp young waiter buzzed around, gossiping like an old queen and kept us in beers.
Mykonos is one of the Cyclades and has a reputation for being a glamour island, notable for its luxury yachts, trendy bars, fancy restaurants and high prices. It’s the gay capital of the Greek islands, which is one reason we visited, and some of its beaches throb with parties and clubbers in high season. It seemed apt, therefore, that we spent one night in a gay bar watching the Eurovision Song Contest surrounded by the event’s adoring fans.
Mykonos Town is a pretty place, built around a small harbour. We guessed over-fishing was responsible for the fact that catches being landed by the small trawlers were pretty desperate. Some days we lost ourselves in the narrow alleys and little squares, surrounded by pretty white-washed buildings. Residents take pride in their homes, many of which have outdoor stairs to the floors above – stairs that are painted in bright colours, festooned with flowers and climbing plants. We discovered little cafes and bars, charming art galleries and Petros the pelican, the island’s famous mascot. Paraportiani church is a famous landmark, as is the picturesque promontory of Little Venice.
We didn’t find many decent beaches around town so we took trips out, taking advantage of the small boats that chug along the coast as well as the local bus services. The latter revealed an island I wouldn’t describe as pretty. It can be barren, its landscapes shaped by harsh winter winds, peppered by giant granite boulders, ancient farm buildings and holiday developments.
The main (and sometimes nudist) beaches are Paraga, Paradise, Elia and Super Paradise, but they were nowhere near as busy as they would be in high season. We settled on sun beds, read and enjoyed a lazy lunch while perfectly chiselled men in swimming costumes that were just a little too tight wandered about, which was mildly diverting. One day we had lunch accompanied by the finest grapefruity Sauvignon Blanc I’ve ever tasted, a locally produced wine that sadly wasn’t for sale other than in the restaurant.
Come evening we headed for picture postcard Little Venice to see the famous Mykonos sunsets, accompanied by a Mythos. We joined the strollers along Enopolon Dynameon Street, home to the modest and mildly diverting Aegean Maritime and Folk Museums. Then, back at Little Venice, we spent too much on Greek specialities and excellent seafood in the restaurants.
One day we took the boat to the uninhabited island of Delos, a place where Apollo and Artemis were born according to Greek myth. It’s one of the most important of historical sites in Greece and its archaeological remains are rightly famous. We explored them and its small museum, and walked up into the hills with the sun beating down. From the top we enjoyed splendid views across the island and back to Mykonos.
The wild flowers were in full bloom and the island looked desolate and romantic, quiet and remote. A very different place to Mykonos…