Tasmania is an island of glorious landscapes. And we spent our last day in the state deep in the countryside exploring Mount Field National Park, which is famous for its forests and waterfalls and about an hour’s drive north-west of Hobart. That drive was almost as spectacular as the park itself, hugging the banks of…
Tasmania: The penal colony of Port Arthur
Australians became well practiced in the art of forgetting that many of the country’s founding mothers and fathers were convicts, transported from the overcrowded gaols of Britain. These days they embrace their history, however grim. Many of the key convict sites across Australia are banded together as a UNESCO World Heritage site and one of…
Heritage and history in Hobart
Planning our Australian holiday, friends raised their eyebrows at our decision to go to Hobart in Tasmania rather than the Great Barrier Reef or Uluru. But while Hobart may once have been a backwater, we were drawn by its foodie scene, craft beers and the notorious penal colony further down the coast at Port Arthur….
Sydney: Hyde Park Barracks and Watsons Bay
Ahead of our Australian holiday I started reading A Commonwealth of Thieves, the excellent Thomas Keneally book that describes the arrival of the First Fleet of convicts in New South Wales in 1788 and its consequences. On our second day in Sydney we visited two places that played a key role in the early years…
Exploring The Rocks in Sydney
It’s difficult to picture what Sydney would’ve been like when convicts first arrived in 1788 but remnants of the city they helped to create can still be seen in the district called The Rocks. It was the first stop on our exploration of the capital of New South Wales, and the first stop on our…
A wintry day in Helsinki
Spending a day in the Finnish capital Helsinki could be considered a strange way to start a Christmas holiday in Australia. But there was logic to it as we’d secured business class flights on Qatar Airways for half the price of ones out of London, representing a massive saving on the cost of our three-week…
Jerez and its sherry
Jerez is a Spanish city built on the riches of sherry. In fact, the word ‘sherry’ is itself a corruption of Jerez. This delicious fortified wine was one of the main reasons we’d opted for a city break there and throughout our short stay in 2017 we’d taken the chance to enjoy a tipple. Back…
Jerez: A palacio, archaeology and Flamenco
Sunday in Jerez means religion for many locals but for us it meant visits to the Count of the Andes’ palace, a flea market and a museum. But only after breakfast in Plaza Plateros, where we watched those religious types promenading past on their way to one or other of the city’s many historic churches….
Jerez and its Alcazar
Jerez and Seville are two of Andalucia’s great cities, and they have much in common. Both were born out of civilisations that were at times pagan, Islamic and Christian. That history is written over the streets and the architecture, and reflected in the way locals live their lives. It’s a fascinating muddle. Jerez in November…
A week in Malta
After months of stress and aggravation at work we needed an easy week away to relax and recuperate but October’s an iffy month in the Med, and low season can mean storms and rain. But we were lucky. We had nothing but warm sunshine during our week in Malta, the small but perfectly formed island…
Valletta: A day exploring Malta’s capital
I look forward to returning to Valletta one day. And perhaps then it will be finished… Because our trip coincided with a huge building and restoration programme, being carried out in preparation for the city’s role as European Capital of Culture in 2018. Quite a few of its popular tourist destinations, such as St John’s…
Malta: The ancient splendour of Mdina
The glorious fortified city of Mdina in the heart of Malta is a must-see and full of atmosphere. Once the island’s capital, it’s been shaped over the centuries by Phonecians, Romans and Arabs. But we nearly didn’t make it there at all. Our mistake was to rely on the country’s public transport. Despite Mdina being…
Valletta’s Notte Bianca festival
A mounting sense of dread gripped me as we approached the gates of Valletta on our first night in Malta. It looked as if the entire population of the small Mediterranean island was making its way from the bus station and taxi ranks just outside the city gates into the pint-sized capital. We were carried…
New York’s fascinating Tenement Museum
Our visit to the Chinatown Heritage Centre in Singapore, a museum that revealed much about the lives of the poorest of immigrants to the city state, prompted memories of my favourite museum in New York City. The Tenement Museum in the bustling and traditionally working class Lower East Side explores the experiences of German, Irish and…
A date at the Grand Ducal Palace in Luxembourg
Our final day in Luxembourg was a bank holiday back in Britain but the city that had been our home for the weekend was going back to work as we packed for the flight back to London. However, before leaving we’d got a tour of the Grand Ducal Palace lined up. After checking out of…